1 Month in Pembrokeshire, Wales: Beaches, Castles, Costs and What I Didn’t Expect

In June 2026, I spent 1 month exploring the south of Wales, somewhere in the middle of Pembrokeshire. Exploring the UK has been a long-time dream of mine, but the distance from my home base, driving rules and apparent costs delayed this trip for a long time.

But in the summer of 2026, I (together with my boyfriend and dog) decided to drive all across Europe, from Bucharest, Romania, to the UK. The drive itself, just to get there, was an experience, so please check out my driving from Romania to the UK post for more details. 

But little did I know that my view of the world was only about to change, in the most positive way. 

I had little to no expectation of Wales before arriving there. And that’s simply because I decided to not research too much about what there is to do around. And wow, there was a lot for me to explore. 

I’m giving all this insight for anyone looking to plan a trip to the South and South East of Wales, to explore Pembrokeshire and to see more of the UK, which is so much more than a few popular cities and football teams. 

Why Pembrokeshire (and why it took me so long to get here)

Honestly, Edy, my partner was the one who suggested going to Wales. He is a huge history buff and kept telling me on and on about the many castles there are around Wales. 

Another reason was the weather. We are not into summer weather, and we don’t like baking on a beach at 40°C. So in our popular culture, weather in the UK is still comfortable without needing AC. I’ll talk about the weather in Pembrokeshire in a moment, in a separate segment. 

And of course, this was uncharted territory to me, and I love exploring central and northern Europe, love the landscapes and people; it’s just my vibe. 

Accommodation costs were also a reason I chose Pembrokeshire. When I first started planning this trip, I wasn’t too keen on any specific location. But then, as I checked different time periods on Airbnb, I found a very nice, suitable and affordable cottage in Pembrokeshire and booked it without thinking too much about it. 

Securing an entire cottage for a month for about 1000 GBP per month during summer, for 2 adults and a dog, with free parking and all the amenities we needed, was honestly just the right nudge for us to drive there. 

Arriving in Pembrokeshire

What kept me from taking such a trip to the UK was simply their driving rules.

In the UK, they drive on the left; the cars have wheels on the right, so it’s basically the opposite of how 70% of the world drives. 

I have had some experience driving on the left before, in Cyprus, but that was a rental car.

Now I was about to drive my European car, which has the steering wheel on the left, and drive on the left side of the road. It’s all too complicated, and I was secretly afraid. 

Since I had booked the cottage about 2.5 months in advance (that’s the timeline for booking anything in the UK for the summer season), I had plenty of time to research driving in the UK as a foreigner, so I had time to build the courage I needed to make this trip happen. 

So I drove across Europe from East to West, from Bucharest to Calais in France, from where we took the Eurotunnel (LeShuttle train) to cross the English Channel. Check my LeShuttle review to see if that’s suitable for your trip. On the way back, I chose the ferry to cross the Channel.

Then we made a one-night stop in Eastbourne on our way to Pembrokeshire because it was a very long drive to do in one go, while accommodating UK driving rules.

I chose to stay at The Grand Hotel in Eastbourne, and it was the best choice. Check out my detailed review of The Grand Hotel in Eastbourne when travelling with a dog (the service makes all the difference).

Where I stayed in Pembrokeshire

I chose to stay in a country cottage between Pembroke Dock and Tenby, just a 15-minute drive each way.

If you want to explore the beaches, I recommend staying somewhere in the south of Pembrokeshire, as I did. 

Most of these farm stays are hard to find if you are not given precise instructions from the hosts, so it’s no point in telling you where my cottage was. 

But it was very close to many of the southern bays and beaches. Honestly, a perfect spot to stay in during summer if you want to explore castle ruins, learn about the local history, and check out all the raw beaches on the Pembrokeshire coastline. 

Again, I booked this place out of pure luck, but I would definitely go back there to spend another month in the summer. 

Our Airbnb cottage was next to the owner’s house, with private parking right in front of it. The location was in between farms, which is a very common sight in Wales. Driving is essential here, as villages and cottages are scattered on the hills and you need a car to access supermarkets, beaches and other nearby towns. 

Even though it seemed like we had landed in the countryside, it felt pleasant. It was very quiet; the light pollution was little to none, which made the night sky feel more alive than ever. 

The cottage itself was modern and offered most of the amenities we needed, including a very good wifi connection (which we desperately need as digital nomads), which felt weird given the location. But it became one of our most memorable places, as we discovered the area during the month we spent in Pembrokeshire. 

I quickly realised that most of the neighbours around were people who had moved there after living in larger UK cities, seeking the tranquillity of the Welsh countryside. 

In the end, I totally understand them. Having the supermarket 20 minutes by car, multiple beaches 15 minutes by car and being surrounded by nature, farms and animals does something good to your soul and mind. It starts to heal you in ways I never really understood that we need healing. 

But on a practical level, you are not that remote at all. All modern necessities are just 20 to a maximum of 30 minutes away by car; you just need to own a car and be willing to drive on a daily basis. Much like you would in a larger city, but there you would be stuck in traffic most of the time. 

Tips for choosing a place to stay in Pembrokeshire 

If you are planning a longer stay, like a lot of people travelling to Pembrokeshire are, and you want to have easy access to the gorgeous south beaches, then search for a place in or around Tenby, Saundersfoot or Pembroke. 

If you are staying for just a few days, then you’d get more out of the trip by staying inside or closer to these towns. 

Here are my suggestions for a short-term stay:

• Tenby: The Dunes Hotel
• Saundersfoot: St Brides Spa Hotel
• Pembroke: Portclew House

If you are going for surfing or boat trips (Skomer or Ramsey Islands), I’d recommend staying on the western side of Pembrokeshire. Places like Newgale or St Davids are better for you. 

Here’re some nice options for each:

• Newgale: Ocean View Studio
• St Davids: Penrhiw Priory

Getting around: driving in Pembrokeshire

Ok, so driving in the UK is somewhat different to the driving I was used to back home. I wrote an entire guide on what it’s like to drive in the UK as a foreigner, with a European (left-hand-drive) car, so I won’t go into much detail here about the logistics of it. 

If you are too far away to drive to Pembrokeshire (or simply don’t want to drive to get there), you can simply fly to Cardiff, Bristol or even Birmingham and take a train to rent a car. 

I strongly recommend renting a car to explore Pembrokeshire because, in many cases, it’s really time-consuming to use public transport to get from one place to another (if a bus service even exists where you want to go). I recommend comparing rental prices on DiscoverCars to get the best deal. 

What struck me the most is that Pembrokeshire is mostly made up of country roads, and a lot of these roads are single-track roads, often with hedge banks which serve as a natural fence to keep livestock off the road. 

But the tall vegetation also impairs visibility of incoming traffic, which made me back up a lot during my trips around Pembrokeshire. 

The passing places are not huge either, and a lot of the time, they are not well marked. But the safe thing to do is to simply wait in one of the passing places when you see incoming traffic, especially if the traffic is a farm tractor coming at you. 

Locals are always nice, although some seem in a bit of a hurry, and when you add in the winding road and blind corners to the equation, you might end up in a sudden head-on confrontation, so someone will definitely back up their car. 

As a foreigner driving in the countryside of Wales, just make sure to watch the road and always be prepared to encounter a car coming on the same road at the next intersection and brake. 

After you’ve mastered the art of driving on very narrow single-track roads fenced by tall vegetation, you are good to go. 

Although the roads are narrow, most parking is paid, so be sure to bring coins for the parking machines. Data connection will most probably fail around the coastal areas, so you must rely on coins, because card payment wasn’t yet a thing in the summer of 2026. 

You can also get the JustPark or RingGo apps for parking, but you need to set your app store country to the UK before being able to download them. 

Overall, I had a lot of fun driving in Wales. Because you can never get bored there. 

The coastline of Pembrokeshire: what I didn’t expect

I didn’t have many expectations for the nature in the South of Wales. But that’s my fault, because I did no research at all. 

But after starting to look at the map and driving to some of these spots I had so close by to my rented cottage in Pembrokeshire, I realised that the south Pembrokeshire coastline is an absolute gem and it deserves more social media coverage. 

It turns out Brits already know about this place, but it just isn’t the kind of place that gets international recognition. Honestly, that makes me just fall in love with it even more. 

Most of the attractions in Pembrokeshire sit really close to or right on the coastline, and that’s why there’s even the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, which is a popular long trail to walk on. The views never cease to amaze you, and you’d never guess that’s how beautiful Wales is. 

I, for one, never really imagined what the UK looked like, because it always advertises itself as the place of constant rain and gloom. But that’s not the case at all here. 

The Pembrokeshire coastline transforms into one of the most fascinating places in Europe during summer, when the sun shines just enough to make you enjoy the beach but not get too hot. Most of these places are dog-friendly, meaning you can enjoy them with your entire family. 

And there’s always another thing to explore, learn about or drive to. 

For a full breakdown of the best places to visit, see my detailed Pembrokeshire guide.

For instance, to access the road that gets you to the Green Bridge of Wales or St Govan’s Chapel (which is nearby), you need to drive through a military range, which is only open to the public on weekends. It’s interesting to realise you are walking inside a military range, right? 

Then there’s one of the best bays in the UK that I discovered without having a guide tell me to go there. That’s Barafundle Bay, which some compare to a Caribbean beach. I don’t know if we can compare, but the place definitely deserves a visit, even if you visit the south of Pembrokeshire just for a few days. 

By the end of the month, I had visited most of the highlights on the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, which is about 186 miles (300km) in length. Of course, I didn’t walk it; I just drove to the different spots on it, but even by doing the short walks around those areas, I understood the appeal and enjoyed it very much. 

Some days, I ended up driving a bit further west, all the way to St Davids and a bit beyond that. Basically, I did a lot of half-day trips around my base, and it never disappointed me. 

The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path 

This coastal path is an attraction in itself, and many come to Pembrokeshire to walk at least parts of it. But if you are not a walker and, like me, want to drive to some of the best spots close to this trail and simply walk around to discover bits of it, then here are some of the locations I recommend:

• Broad Haven Beach
• St Govan’s Chapel
• Green Bridge of Wales
• Freshwater West
• Whitesands Bay (walk all the way to St Justinian’s)
• Marloes Sands
• Solva
• Abereiddy Beach
• Manorbier Beach

Check out my guide on the best beaches in Pembrokeshire to see when to go and where to park, and to know if there are any dog-related restrictions.

Each one of these spots has parking nearby where you can drive, and from there you can walk on the coastal path and admire the views. 

Dog-friendly places in Pembrokeshire

The UK is one of the most dog-friendly countries in Europe, and I strongly recommend it if you want to go travelling with your dog in Europe. 

I was pleasantly surprised by how much people in Wales love their pets. A lot of people own at least one pet here, and I could see them walking on the many beaches around. Because, almost all places that you can and should visit in Pembrokeshire are dog-friendly, including castles. 

I found only one beach in Pembrokeshire that did not allow dogs, and that is Whitesands Beach near St Davids (no dogs on the beach during summer). But all the other beaches allow dogs; at least part of them allow dogs (which is the case with the popular Newgale Beach). 

See all the best beaches in Pembrokeshire here.

Dogs are also allowed inside castles, cafes and tearooms, and restaurants. If you are unsure, you can always ask if dogs are allowed inside. Also, if dogs are not allowed, for instance, they are not allowed in the supermarket, there will be a sign at the entrance.

The weather in June

I spent the entire month of June in Pembrokeshire, and I was hoping that would bring some good weather days. 

But as our hosts mentioned, the weather is really unpredictable there and getting some drizzle followed by sunshine isn’t something uncommon. 

The first 2 weeks of June were mostly rainy, with some dry hours every day. However, after the middle of June, the weather changed, and the summer was in full effect. 

It was also when the first heatwave in the UK hit, and it was felt all the way to the south of Wales. We spent those 3 days of the heatwave inside, as the cottages have no AC and we are not big fans of the sun. 

The temperature was over 30 degrees Celsius, which isn’t too hot for summer considering we grew up in Romania. 

But somehow, 30 degrees Celsius felt much harder to endure in Wales; it was very humid, which made it hard to breathe or do any sort of activity. 

Going to the beach would have been the best option, but again, we don’t really enjoy blazing sun during midday, so we skipped that. We went to walk on the beach during the afternoon, when the air felt more breathable, and most people were already heading home. 

Either way, it was better, as during the day everyone was rushing to the beaches and the car parks nearby were overflowing. 

I don’t know if the weather in general in the UK is changing, but it seemed that summer comes a bit later in Wales (and over in the UK), but once it hits, you really feel it. 

The rest of the summer was warm and hot in the entire United Kingdom, and there was no rain for most of the summer. Climate change is a real thing in Great Britain, and people are truly suffering during summer. 

Even Brits in larger cities were heading to the nearest beach on weekends, so the best thing to do in the UK in summer is to spend time near the coast to get through the heatwaves. If you are stuck in the city, then the weather will feel really hot and make it hard to conduct daily activities. 

For the best weather for exploring the coastal areas or going to the beach, I recommend starting with the second half of June to minimise the chances of rain. 

Of course, weather is still unpredictable no matter the season, but it seems like it’s starting to feel like a real European summer around late June and the beginning of July. 

Day trips and how far you can go 

I made plenty of day trips from the south of Pembrokeshire, and none were too extreme. I value my sleep, and most trips had a rather late start, just enough for us to have a peaceful breakfast and time to get our stuff ready. 

Here are some of the day trips I made, which I also recommend to anyone visiting the south Pembrokeshire area:

• St Davids (where you can visit the Cathedral, walk to Whitesand Bay, go on a boat tour around Ramsey Island). 
• Skomer Island boat tour (you have to drive to Martin’s Haven; the boat trip needs to be booked in advance; you can see puffins during June and July)
• Solva (beautiful harbour to walk around and then continue on the coastal path. You need to go early because the parking lot fills up fast). 
• Blue Lagoon in Abereiddy Beach (a unique spot on the coastline and a popular place for diving, coasteering and coastal walks)
• Rhossili Bay and Worms Head (need to go at low tide to access the tidal island). 
• Pen y Fan mountain (moderate hike on the highest mountain peak in the south of Wales)
• Swansea (this is the largest city in the area, and it’s worth a trip to discover the harbour and the National Waterfront Museum if you want to learn more about the history of Wales)
• St Govan’s Chapel and Green Bridge of Wales (gorgeous part of the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path)
• Barafundle Bay (one of the beaches in Wales)

But most of my days were made up of shorter trips to nearby beaches, such as Freshwater, Broad Haven and the castles around (Carew, Manorbier, or Pembroke Castle). 

Cost of living for a month in Pembrokeshire

The biggest expense is the accommodation, and if your budget is tight, then it’s worth checking Airbnb prices months in advance. The best and cheaper options get booked at least 3 months (if not more) in advance. Even I booked my cottage 2.5 months in advance, and it felt like most of the places were already booked when I was checking out the prices. 

But overall, I felt Wales offers better prices than other parts of the UK, which is why ultimately we chose to spend a month in Pembrokeshire. 

In our case, it cost 936 GBP for 28 days in a cottage in Pembrokeshire. We booked it on Airbnb, and it was dog-friendly, with private parking, a very good internet connection, and all the amenities, but it didn’t have a TV. It was not an issue for us, but some people might have rejected it for that reason.

It’s important to know that the stay was heavily discounted (about 50% off) because we chose to stay for a month (28 days to be exact) instead of a shorter stay. We always try to take advantage of such discounts for longer stays, as we are flexible with our schedule, and a longer stay allows us to be more relaxed, explore more of the area, while also having days to catch up on sleep, work and other chores.

We started embracing this slow travel lifestyle a few years ago, and we find it very hard to go back to weekend breaks, as it causes too much stress for us and it often ends up costing the same as a month-long stay.  

We only ate at restaurants a few times, and most of the time we went to Tesco and Aldi for grocery shopping and cooked most of our meals. So this will greatly depend on your type of diet. I think we spent about 600 GBP on groceries for the entire month, for 2 adults. 

We also visited quite a lot of castles, museums and did some boat tours, so that was probably another 300 GBP for the month. 

Petrol costs were also high since we drove around a lot to visit all these places. You will need to drive regardless because you are car-dependent, even to get to the supermarket. The cost of the petrol for the month, to cover all our trips, was another 400 GBP. 

Some other small expenses were parking fees. We also stopped for beer and food in a few pubs, which was another 200 GBP or so. 

I believe about 2500 GBP (for 2 adults) is an accurate cost to expect for spending 1 month in summer in Pembrokeshire. Note that we didn’t spend anything on our dog, since we brought all his things, including food, from back home. 

What I wish I’d known before coming to Pembrokeshire

I didn’t realise how popular Pembrokeshire becomes for Brits during summer. I wish I had researched that a bit and booked some of the activities before arriving here. 

For instance, the boat tour at Skomer Island, where the puffins are during summer, can be either a simple boat tour around the island (dog-friendly, what we did), or you can also book a landing trip, where you spend around 5 hours on the island and can observe the puffins up close. Those boat landing trips are booked months in advance, and there was no chance of finding a slot for the entire month once we got there. We were lucky to find a spot for the boat tour around the island. 

There’s another similar tour, the Ramsey Island landing, which is also limited and needs to be pre-booked months in advance. Note that neither is dog-friendly. 

Also, for accessing the Green Bridge of Wales, you need to book your trip for the weekend, because the road goes through a military range and it is closed to the public during the week. 

I’d recommend setting your App Store country to the UK, so you can download useful apps like Tesco Clubcard (get discounts when shopping), and parking apps JustPark and RingGo. Otherwise, you will pay more at Tesco and need to pay with coins at all car parks in Wales. And good luck getting coins for the parking machine. 

The internet is a huge issue around the coastal part of Wales, so be prepared to have little to no connectivity while walking around any of the coastal attractions. You have to save your maps offline on your phone if you want driving directions. Check out my comparison guide for the best eSIM for UK travel, as I did a lot of testing in those areas. 

Would I go back to Pembrokeshire?

Honestly, YES, without a doubt, I would go back to Pembrokeshire. 

Pembrokeshire is the kind of place that forces you to step outside your comfortable urban life and see and experience a world that you’d never thought you’d find within Wales. 

Even the best photos don’t do this coastline justice, as in reality these places looked so much more vivid than a picture can show you. 

People were genuinely friendly, although discreet, and we felt welcomed, invited to learn more about the history of the place. We were left curious and thirsty for more. 

The more days passed, the more my map became a huge collection of places I wanted to explore, and I felt like 1 month wasn’t enough time for it. 

I didn’t expect Wales to offer us some of the best beaches in Western Europe. And during summer, when the sun shines brightly, they compare to popular beaches from around the world. 

For me, an attractive destination is one that offers a remote place with limited visitors, which prioritises the well-being of nature and locals living there before any profit that might come from the tourist industry. 

And Wales is exactly that place. It sets a higher entrance barrier by the fact that you need a car to explore it; the roads are narrow and winding and are not for the everyday casual driver from mainland Europe. 

But this is exactly the kind of serene adventure travel that some of us are looking for, and it warms my heart to know that Wales will always be there for me to offer just that. 

I don’t know when, but I know I will be back one day.